Further afield...

Pangane

Pangane is a Muani traditional fishing village located on one of the most dazzlingly white and long stretches of beach in the north of Mozambique. Very popular with backpackers and independent travellers with their own vehicles, it is the ideal place to chill out for a few days. Achime’s Camp, although basic, is the only real place to stay there at present with three bamboo bungalows on the beach, has decent ablutions, the people are friendly and welcoming and Achime’s wife cooks great seafood. From Pangane, travellers can catch a dhow to pretty much anywhere in the surrounding area – a fantastic part of the park to explore by boat but make sure you are going with the trade winds and not against… Alternatively, relax under the coconut palms! In the unlikely event that Achime’s Camp is full, you can try Casa Suki, also basic, but a bed for the night. Pangane does not have cell phone reception, telecommunications, banks, nor electricity. You will need to relax, appreciate the sheer beauty of the place and switch off from the outside world!

Makonde Plateau, Mueda & Muidumbe

The Mueda massacre was in 1960, 16th of June. There was no confiscation of land whatsoever. A group of Makonde coming from Tanganyika, where they had formed expatriate associations of workers (Makonde Africa National Union, MANU), lamented with the administrator of Mueda the increase of the prices at which the administration was buying crops from the people. The nationalist history goes that in that moment they asked for the Independence of Mozambique, and that the massacre followed this request. Figures of dead people are contested. Some say 600, some say 16. Around 50–100 is the most reasonable figure. But you can go with the official version of 600. There is a memorial there to those who died. 1964 is the beginning of the war staged by Frelimo. It is not a rebellion, but a military attack against the administration in Chai (Macomia), 25th of September, led by Makonde guerrilla Alberto Chipande.

You can visit Mueda and the villages on the Makonde plateau, 400km north of Pemba. Kaskazini will direct you to Muidumbe, where a family will receive you with simple hospitality. Accommodation is in a guesthouse owned by the former administrator of the town and his wife is a legendary cook (ask to try the giant land snails!). This is really for those looking for an authentic African experience, without much in the way of comfort, but you will receive a clean bed and bathroom, a meal, and also the friendship of this independent and proud people. Your host can also arrange Mapiko dancing for which Muidumbe is famous!

Murrébuè

Pemba to Murrébuè is becoming very popular with investors looking to build resorts and restaurants to suit all budgets. At present, there is nowhere else to stay but the gorgeous rock or bamboo chalets at Il Pirata, comfortable with great Italian hospitality and delicious meals in the restaurant. Murrébuè beach is beautiful and popular at weekends – with stunning pools at low tide and good swimming at high tide. There is also the local Upeponi restaurant which is open on Saturdays and Sundays, or you can take a picnic. Hire a 4x4, or ask Kaskazini to arrange a transfer for you – well worth a visit for an afternoon, or even a whole day. Beware if you take your own vehicle to lock it and DO NOT leave valuables in sight!

Mecufi

Mecufi is the next village along the coast from Murruebue – it is about an hour or so scenic drive from Pemba, at the end of the road, there is a fabulous long, white sand beach. You cross over the salt plains to get there, and you should take a picnic with you to enjoy a relaxed meal in the shade on the beach. The main attraction is of course the beach, but also the basket and mat weavers who deftly craft intricate patterns into the useful wares they sell in the local villages. As with all beaches in Mozambique, do not leave your valuables in the car, or your car unlocked as odds are that they will not be there when you get back.