The Makonde

The Makonde

The Mozambican Makonde settled around the Mueda Plateau and maintain active ties with the Makonde in Tanzania, though separated by the Rovuma river. They share a warrior culture and have strong traditions of dance and drumming, especially the famous mapiko masked dances, and are known as masters of ebony carving.

Settlements are widely scattered, and they still put a lot of emphasis on their own culture, traditions and religion incorporating the complex world of the spirits. Because of the relative isolation of their homeland, the first contacts with Europeans did not occur until 1910, and they were very sporadic. The coastal location of the Makonde, however, indicates involvement with Swahili slave traders for centuries. 

The primary source of food comes from slash and burn farming. Crops include maize, sorghum and cassava and are often supplemented by hunting. More recently carving for the tourist trade has become a major industry for artists near the cities. Beautiful statues and ornaments can be bought in Pemba from several cooperatives or in the Makonde villages close to Mueda.

Individual settlements recognise a headman who has inherited his position matrilineal, based on his family’s position of power within the community. There is no ruler of all the Makonde peoples, as each village maintain a certain degree of independence. The Makonde have maintained their traditional religion despite centuries of influence by Islamic traders. Their practises center around the celebration and remembrance of the ancestors.

Now forbidden, the older generation practised body scarring and you may see older people with markings on their faces and bodies. It is also fairly common to see elderly Makonde women wearing a wooden plug in their upper lip.

Makonde Plateau, Mueda & Muidumbe

The Mueda massacre was in 1960, 16th of June. There was no confiscation of land whatsoever. A group of Makonde coming from Tanganyika, where they had formed expatriate associations of workers (Makonde Africa National Union, MANU), lamented with the administrator of Mueda the increase of the prices at which the administration was buying crops from the people. The nationalist history goes that in that moment they asked for the Independence of Mozambique, and that the massacre followed this request. Figures of dead people are contested. Some say 600, some say 16. Around 50–100 is the most reasonable figure. But you can go with the official version of 600. There is a memorial there to those who died. 1964 is the beginning of the war staged by Frelimo. It is not a rebellion, but a military attack against the administration in Chai (Macomia), 25th of September, led by Makonde guerrilla Alberto Chipande.

You can visit Mueda and the villages on the Makonde plateau, 400km north of Pemba. Kaskazini will direct you to Muidumbe, where a family will receive you with simple hospitality. Accommodation is in a guesthouse owned by the former administrator of the town and his wife is a legendary cook (ask to try the giant land snails!). This is really for those looking for an authentic African experience, without much in the way of comfort, but you will receive a clean bed and bathroom, a meal, and also the friendship of this independent and proud people. Your host can also arrange Mapiko dancing for which Muidumbe is famous!

Boutiques, arts & crafts

For the best Makonde carvings, arts and crafts, Artes Makonde (formerly CeeBee) is the best craft shop in Pemba, with a wide selection of silver jewellery from Ibo Island, baskets, Tinga Tinga paintings, and other ornaments. They are located outside the Nautilus Hotel on Wimbe Beach next to the casino, with a branch at the Pemba Beach Hotel as well. Makonde carving cooperatives and shops are located opposite the airport, at the southern entrance to Mbanguia market, behind the Super Wimbe restaurant on Wimbe beach, and in front of the Casa da Cultura on the coastal road just before the Pemba Beach Hotel. People will approach you on the beach to sell jewellery and ornaments, including turtle shell jewellery, coral, large shells and ivory. Please be aware that it is illegal to buy and sell any of these articles (except ivory which can be traded within Mozambique but only with a specific license, and may not be taken out of the country). Please support our efforts to protect the reef and marine life and rather buy other jewellery, carvings and ornaments.

Boutiques: At the Pemba Beach Hotel you can find souvenirs and a small range of toiletries and magazines at Mabuko and Peri-peri sells lovely swimming costumes and casual wear. There is also a small boutique at the Pemba Dolphin Restaurant on Wimbe beach which sells imported clothes, swim wear and souvenirs.